This page gives more details on fitting and using the Shed Shackle in metal sheds, bike stores, cycle huts etc. Another page gives details on the variant that can be used to improve the security of wooden sheds. Details that are common to all of these situations are shown on the main Shed Shackle information page.
Suitability for Metal Sheds
The Shed Shackle is designed to be fitted to metal sheds with thin sheet walls, typically only a matter of millimetres thick. The maximum metal thickness that can be accommodated with the standard fixings is 5-8mm. Most metal sheds/bike stores have walls that are barely 1.0mm thick, and any overlap of two sheets will typically be about 2.0mm thick in total. These are fine. If you have a metal building with walls that are thicker than 5-8mm, you may be better off using the Torc ground anchor with its 'Van' fitting kit, as that is designed for stiffer situations that are typical in cycle stores and such like.
Metal cycle stores usually have ribbing in the walls to improve their stiffness. The Shed Shackle must be fitted to the side of the wall that has the flats between the ribs. The ribs usually go outwards, with the flats between them forming a flat plane on the inside of the shed. I.e. the ribs must be proud/raised on the *outside* of the shed in the region where the Shed Shackle will be fitted. This is how the Shed Shackle is designed to be used. If your ribs go the other way, such that the ribs are recessed inwards, towards the inside of the shed, the Shed Shackle will not be suitable for use on the inside of that wall. If there is another wall available that has the ribbing going outwards, then that may be the only option; otherwise, the Shed Shackle will not suitable and another solution will be required. If you ribs are partly inward and partly outward, the Shed Shackle will have to be fitted within the area where the ribs are outward.
Note that you will need access to both sides of the shed wall where you want to mount the Shed Shackle. Access from the outside is required to poke bolts through and to tighten them. If you intend to fit it to a shed wall with a fence behind, it is generally not difficult to lift a few of the fence boards and thereby gain access for the bolts. Be careful with sharp nails if you adopt this approach. (Of course, this assumes that you can get access to the other side of the fence!)
Tools Required to fit a Shed Shackle to a metal shed:
The following tools are required to fit a Shed Shackle to a metal shed/cycle store:
- An electric drill with at least a 10mm chuck capacity
- HSS (metal cutting) drill bits 9-10mm and 4mm (e.g.), to suit drill
- A 16mm AF spanner or adjustable wrench
- A centre punch for locating the drill bit
- Eye protection – goggles or a visor should be worn
- A pencil or felt pen or similar for marking holes to drill
- A hammer
- You may wish to use Loctite or other threadlock compound, which is available from DIY and car accessory stores as well as engineering suppliers
- A helper for tightening the bolts
HSS (metal cutting) drill bits 9mm and 4mm are included in the fitting kit, as are all bolts and fastenings required.
Example Applications and Photos
Below are some photographs of bicycles and garden equipment secured to the Shed Shackle in a metal shed, and more external & internal views:
|Three bicycles fitted to a Metal Shed Shackle inside a bike hut, with a Protector 11mm 2.0m long chain and Squire SS50CS padlock|
|Another three bicycles fitted to a Metal Shed Shackle inside a bike hut, with a Protector 11mm 2.0m long chain and Squire SS50CS padlock|
|A view of the Metal Shed Shackle itself, ready for a chain to secure valuables!|
|Detail photo from the outside of the shed, showing the ball bearing ready to be hammered into a bolt head, to defeat drilling attacks|
|Detail photo on the inside of the shed, showing showing one of the shear nuts, with a plastic cap covering the end of the bolt|